Robot Hat

Robot Hat:
Because robots are awesome.







Materials: Any worsted weight yarn. MC (black, approx 200 yards), CC1 (orange), CC2 (blue), CC3 (green). I used wool from a recycled sweater and some old mystery acrylic, so substitute whatever worsted yarn you want.
Needles: Size 6 dpns
Gauge: 22 sts and 33 rows = 4'' in stockinette stitch
Sizes: Adult M/L, Child

Adult size chart (click for full-size):

(EDIT: The top two rows of this chart create some fairly large yarn floats on the inside of the hat. It still works, but if you want to avoid this, knit the last two rows using only the MC and duplicate stitch the pattern onto them.)

Adult size: With CC1, cast on 112 sts, 28 on each needle. Join in the round and start knitting k3 p1 ribbing. Knit 7 rounds of ribbing. Switch to CC2. Knit 8 rounds of ribbing. Turn work inside-out (This makes it so the k3 p1 ribbing is reversed into p3 k1 ribbing. I do it this way because I like knitting stitches better than purling. Alternately you could do the ribbing in p3 k1 and not turn it inside-out), sl 1 stitch, k all sts for the rest of the round. K all sts for 3 more rounds. Switch to MC and k all sts for 18 rounds. Switch to CC2, k all sts for 1 round. Using MC and CC3, work the 18 rows of the robot chart pattern. When you're done with the robot chart, k 1 more round using just the MC. Now start reducing stitches for the top of the hat: Make sure your stitches are evenly distributed between the 4 needles. At the start of each needle, k2tog then k the rest of the sts on the needle, so you're reducing by 4 sts every round. Continue to do this until only 8 sts remain. Cut yarn, use a needle to thread the yarn through the 8 sts and pull it tight. Weave in ends.

Child size chart (click for full-size):

(EDIT: The top two rows of this chart create some fairly large yarn floats on the inside of the hat. It still works, but if you want to avoid this, knit the last two rows using only the MC and duplicate stitch the pattern onto them.)

Child size: With CC1, cast on 104 sts, 26 on each needle. Join in the round and start knitting k3 p1 ribbing. Knit 6 rounds of ribbing. Switch to CC2. Knit 7 rounds of ribbing. Turn work inside-out (This makes it so the k3 p1 ribbing is reversed into p3 k1 ribbing. I do it this way because I like knitting stitches better than purling. Alternately you could do the ribbing in p3 k1 and not turn it inside-out), sl 1 stitch, k all sts for the rest of the round. K all sts for 3 more rounds. Switch to MC and k all sts for 15 rounds. Switch to CC2, k all sts for 1 round. Using MC and CC3, work the 18 rows of the robot chart pattern. When you're done with the robot chart, k 1 more round using just the MC. Now start reducing stitches for the top of the hat: Make sure your stitches are evenly distributed between the 4 needles. At the start of each needle, k2tog then k the rest of the sts on the needle, so you're reducing by 4 sts every round. Continue to do this until only 8 sts remain. Cut yarn, use a needle to thread the yarn through the 8 sts and pull it tight. Weave in ends.

For a more winter-y hat, you could make a pom-pom from the 3 contrasting colors and attach it to the top.

Feel free to use the robot charts for other projects!

I'm offering this pattern for free, but if you can, please donate a few dollars using the paypal button in the sidebar. It would be very much appreciated, and help me to be able to keep offering more patterns in the future.

SWS Striped Scarf

SWS Striped Scarf:
I had three half-skeins of Patons SWS yarn left over from other projects and didn't know what to do with them. The colors together reminded me of Noro yarns, and I kept seeing gorgeous Noro striped scarves on Ravelry, so I got inspired and managed to pick up three more skeins on sale to create this scarf. It's a very simple pattern, but the color changes in the yarn keep it exciting. It's knit in a tube so the finished scarf is extremely warm and cozy.





Materials: Patons SWS (Soy Wool Stripes), approx 4.5 skeins, or 500 yards. Any color combination that you want. Shown using 1 skein each of Natural Blue, Natural Green and Natural Slate, and .5 skeins each of Natural Navy, Natural Plum and Natural Garden.
Needles: Size 8 DPNs or circular needle
Gauge: 21 sts and 26 rows = 4''. Getting exact gauge is not too important since this is a scarf.
Finished dimensions: 6'' wide, 4.5' long without fringe, 5.5' with fringe

Cast on 64 sts, join in the round (Note: This makes a large scarf that is 6 inches wide. For a narrower or wider scarf, cast on or remove 11 sts for each inch you want to add/reduce). If you are using a circular needle, I recommend placing a stitch marker on your needle at this point to mark the start of the round. Knit 4 rows. Choose a second color that contrasts well with the color you started with. Tie this new yarn to your previous yarn on the inside of the tube, knit 4 more rows with it. Switch back to the first color, knit 4 rows. When you switch colors, keep the yarn on the inside of the tube so it will be hidden. You don't have to cut the yarn every time you switch colors, just run the color you're not using along the inside of the tube. Continue to knit stripes of 4 rows each, cutting the yarn and switching to a different colorway whenever you feel like it. (I recommend keeping at least 4 stripes between times when you switch in a new color, to keep the changes more gradual. I also recommend switching if you ever notice the two colorways you are working with have turned into very similar colors, as this will make the stripes hard to see. Do try to switch yarns every now and then instead of just using the whole skein, as this will make the colors more evenly distributed around the scarf and you won't end up with one half looking entirely different from the other half.) Keep knitting until you have 84 stripes, the scarf is at the desired length, you are close to running out of yarn, or you get sick of it. :) Cast off.

Fringe:
If you want to make fringe, try to keep a bit of leftovers from each ball of yarn you work with (If you don't want fringe- just sew the ends of your tube together and you're done). SWS would turn into fuzz if it was made into fringe the normal way, so I decided to do a braided fringe. Cut 66 12'' pieces of yarn (for scarf sizes other than 64 sts- Take the number of stitches you cast on, then round up to the nearest multiple of 3). Divide into two equal piles, one for each end of the scarf, trying to keep the colors evenly distributed between the piles. (Try and get as many different colors as you can when you cut the yarn for the fringe- I had a little bit left from each skein I used, and I cut pieces from both ends of them to get more colors.) Starting on the bottom edge of the scarf where the beginning of the round is, use a needle or crochet hook to thread each piece of fringe through a stitch on the front and the corresponding stitch on the back. Pull the piece of yarn so the ends are at an even length, then tie it in a single knot. Continue this for all the stitches along the end of the scarf for both ends, so the bottom of the tube is now tied closed. You will probably have to put two pieces of fringe through a single stitch at one point, unless you cast on a multiple of 3 sts for your scarf. Start at one end and braid adjacent pieces of yarn together, tying the bottom of each braid into a knot.

I'm offering this pattern for free, but if you can, please donate a few dollars using the paypal button in the sidebar. It would be very much appreciated, and help me to be able to keep offering more patterns in the future.

Custom Tank Top Version #2

Custom Tank Top Version #2:
The pattern was originally created in size xsmall and has minimal shaping, but instructions are included to make it with a custom fit that should work for most sizes (At least I hope so! E-mail feedback to spacerobot47(at)gmail(dot)com, post comments here, or contact me at my ravelry account: yonjuunana).









Check out the other versions of this pattern. If you want, you should be able to mix and match parts with them:
Version #1

Materials: Aunt Lydia's Quick Crochet Denim, or other light worsted yarn, approx 600 yards for size xsmall. (Shown in color: Oxford) [EDIT: A note about yarn weight and substitutions: Aunt Lydia's is listed as worsted weight but seems to be lighter than that. I'm making another version of the top in Lion Brand Microspun, which is sport weight, and getting the same gauge. If you're substituting yarn, try making a swatch first.]
Hook: Size H and I
Sizes: xs (s, m, l)
Gauge: 3.5'' x 2.75'' for 18 stitches wide x 10 rows in the alternating back/front loop only stitch pattern used in the first part of the pattern. (Gauge isn't super important because you'll be trying on the garment at various stages to make sure it fits properly- but I recommend trying to get close to gauge for width at least. If you want to substitute a heavier worsted yarn like Sugar'n Cream, it may be hard to get gauge, so I'd try swatching and reducing the starting chain by a few stitches if necessary. I'm going to try this sometime and I'll update the pattern with advice when I do.)

Bust:
Using the H hook, Ch 19 (21, 23, 25), leaving about a foot of yarn at the beginning of the chain.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and all remaining sts, 18 (20, 22, 24) sts, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, Sc in front loop only of all sts, 18 (20, 22, 24) sts, turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, Sc in back loop only of all sts, 18 (20, 22, 24) sts, turn.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have a long strip that can fit around your bust comfortably, or measure around your bust and crochet the strip to that length. Do not cut yarn. Use the foot of yarn left at the beginning to sew the front and back of the strip together to form a loop, with the stripes created by the front and back loop crochet on the outside.

Top:
Row 1: Ch 2. Sc around the top of the strip previously created (1 sc should fit in each row), sl st into first ch2.
Row 2: Now it gets a bit tricky- Figure out where the center front of your garment is, making sure the seam where you sewed the two ends of the strip together is on the back. Mark this center front stitch with a safety pin or something. Now count 13 sts to either side of this marker, and place markers there as well. (Customization notes: These markers will be about where the outside edge of the straps are. Feel free to try on the garment at this point to see if you want to adjust the strap placement at all, and move the markers if necessary) Ch 2, sc in all sts to 1st marker, dc in st with marker and next 2 sts, triple crochet next 3 sts, dc 3, sc to center marker, sc in st with center marker, sc to 9 sts away from last marker, dc 3, triple crochet 3, dc 2, dc in st with marker, sc all remaining sts, sl st into first ch2.
Row 3: Repeat row 2. Bind off and weave in end.

Straps (with outside shell edging):
Row 1: Attach yarn to front top, 3 sts to the inside from where one of the outer markers was placed (this should be right between a triple crochet and a double crochet stitch). Draw up loop, ch 39. Count 11 sts from the seam on the back, sl st into that st.
Row 2: Sl st into next st on back (12 sts from the center seam), sc all sts in chain (39 sts), sl st into front st next to the st you started at (moving from the center to the outside- should be a dc stitch).
Row 3: Sl st into next st on front, sc all st in strap (39 sts), sl st into next st on back.
Row 4: Sl st into next st on back, sc all st in strap (39 sts), sl st into next stitch on the front.
(In simpler terms- you're single crocheting back and forth along a strap that's 39 sts long, and on each side you attach the strap by slip stitching where you want it to connect, then slip stitching in the next stitch to move over a row, moving from the center side of the strap to the outside.)
Row 5: Sl st into next st on front, dc 3 into first st of strap, *sk 2, sl st 1, sk 2, dc 5 into next st* repeat between *s until you reach end of strap. Sl st into final st. Bind off and weave in ends.
Make 2 straps this way.
(For customization- After completing the top part you should be able to try on the garment at any time to make sure it's fitting properly. To make sure the straps are the length you want, I'd recommend trying on the top after the first row of the first strap or so, so you can see if the straps are at a good length and if not, you can adjust them by adding or subtracting a few sts so they fit.)

Bottom:
Row 1: Attach yarn at back seam on the bottom. Draw up a loop, ch 2, sc around the bottom of the strip like you did for the top, sl st into first ch2.
Row 2: Ch 2, sc all sts, sl st into first ch2.
Row 3: Count how many sts you have. For shaping, and to make this fit the lace pattern, figure out what the closest multiple of 8 is that's smaller than the number you counted. Ch 2, sc all sts, using evenly distributed sc2togs to reduce the number of stitches to that multiple of 8,
(For customization or a better fit for larger sizes- Measure around your chest under your bust, make a small gauge swatch of single crochet, and use that to calculate how many stitches are needed to fit around you, rounding up to the closest multiple of 8.)
Row 4: Ch 2, dc all sts, sl st into top of beginning ch3.
(Note: If you are substituting a lace pattern that is not a multiple of 8, you'll have to change this a bit. For example, if you want to use a multiple of 6, use the number 6 instead of 8 when following this section.)
Lace pattern (zig zag- multiple of 8):
Row 1: Ch 2, dc 2, *ch 3, sk 3, dc 5* repeat between *s until 5 sts remain, ch 3, sk 3, dc 2, sl st into first ch2.
Row 2: Ch 2, dc 4, *ch 3, sk 3, dc 5* repeat between *s until
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until there are 15 rows of the lace pattern total. For shaping: I do the first 5 rows using the H hook, the next 5 rows alternating between the H and I hook every repeat of the lace pattern, then the last 5 rows using only the I hook.
(Customization: You can try on the top at any point to see if it's long enough, and do extra repeats of the lace if it isn't. For curvier shaping, feel free to gradually increase to an even larger hook size.)

Bottom shell edging:
Row 1: Ch 2, dc all sts, sl st into top of first ch2.
Row 2: Ch 2, sc all sts, sl st into top of first ch2.
Row 3: *Sk 2, dc 5 in next st, sk 2, sl st* repeat between *s around entire bottom, sl st into first st, bind off. Weave in ends.

I'm offering this pattern for free, but if you can, please donate a few dollars using the paypal button in the sidebar. It would be very much appreciated, and help me to be able to keep offering more patterns in the future.

Custom Tank Top Version #1

Custom Tank Top Version #1:
The pattern was originally created in size xsmall and has minimal shaping, but instructions are included to make it with a custom fit that should work for most sizes (At least I hope so! This is my first time writing a pattern. E-mail feedback to spacerobot47(at)gmail(dot)com, post comments here, or contact me at my ravelry account: yonjuunana).









Check out the other versions of this pattern. If you want, you should be able to mix and match parts with them:
Version #2

Materials: Aunt Lydia's Quick Crochet Denim, or other light worsted yarn, approx 600 yards for size xsmall. (Shown in color: Oxford) [EDIT: A note about yarn weight and substitutions: Aunt Lydia's is listed as worsted weight but seems to be lighter than that. I'm making another version of the top in Lion Brand Microspun, which is sport weight, and getting the same gauge. If you're substituting yarn, try making a swatch first.]
Hook: Size H and I
Sizes: xs (s, m, l)
Gauge: 3.5'' x 2.75'' for 18 stitches wide x 10 rows in the alternating back/front loop only stitch pattern used in the first part of the pattern. (Gauge isn't super important because you'll be trying on the garment at various stages to make sure it fits properly- but I recommend trying to get close to gauge for width at least. If you want to substitute a heavier worsted yarn like Sugar'n Cream, it may be hard to get gauge, so I'd try swatching and reducing the starting chain by a few stitches if necessary. I'm going to try this sometime and I'll update the pattern with advice when I do.)

Bust:
Using the H hook, Ch 19 (21, 23, 25), leaving about a foot of yarn at the beginning of the chain.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and all remaining sts, 18 (20, 22, 24) sts, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, Sc in front loop only of all sts, 18 (20, 22, 24) sts, turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, Sc in back loop only of all sts, 18 (20, 22, 24) sts, turn.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have a long strip that can fit around your bust comfortably, or measure around your bust and crochet the strip to that length. Do not cut yarn. Use the foot of yarn left at the beginning to sew the front and back of the strip together to form a loop, with the stripes created by the front and back loop crochet on the outside.

Top:
Row 1: Ch 2. Sc around the top of the strip previously created (1 sc should fit in each row), sl st into first ch2.
Row 2: Now it gets a bit tricky- Figure out where the center front of your garment is, making sure the seam where you sewed the two ends of the strip together is on the back. Mark this center front stitch with a safety pin or something. Now count 13 sts to either side of this marker, and place markers there as well. (Customization notes: These markers will be about where the outside edge of the straps are. Feel free to try on the garment at this point to see if you want to adjust the strap placement at all, and move the markers if necessary) Ch 2, sc in all sts to 1st marker, dc in st with marker and next 2 sts, triple crochet next 3 sts, dc 3, sc to center marker, sc in st with center marker, sc to 9 sts away from last marker, dc 3, triple crochet 3, dc 2, dc in st with marker, sc all remaining sts, sl st into first ch2.
Row 3: Repeat row 2. Bind off and weave in end.

Straps:
Row 1: Attach yarn to front top, 3 sts to the inside from where one of the outer markers was placed (this should be right between a triple crochet and a double crochet stitch). Ch 39. Count 11 sts from the seam on the back, sl st into that st.
Row 2: Sl st into next st on back (12 sts from the center seam), sc all sts in chain (39 sts), sl st into front st next to the st you started at (moving from the center to the outside- should be a dc stitch).
Row 3: Sl st into next st on front, sc all st in strap (39 sts), sl st into next st on back.
Row 4: Sl st into next st on back, sc all st in strap (39 sts), sl st into next stitch on the front, bind off and weave in ends.
(In simpler terms- you're single crocheting back and forth along a strap that's 39 sts long, and on each side you attach the strap by slip stitching where you want it to connect, then slip stitching in the next stitch to move over a row, moving from the center side of the strap to the outside.)
Make 2 straps this way.
(For customization- After completing the top part you should be able to try on the garment at any time to make sure it's fitting properly. To make sure the straps are the length you want, I'd recommend trying on the top after the first row of the first strap or so, so you can see if the straps are at a good length and if not, you can adjust them by adding or subtracting a few sts so they fit.)

Bottom:
Row 1: Attach yarn at back seam on the bottom. Draw up a loop, ch 2, sc around the bottom of the strip like you did for the top, sl st into first ch2.
Row 2: Ch 2, sc all sts, sl st into first ch2.
Row 3: Count how many sts you have. For shaping, and to make this fit the lace pattern, figure out what the closest multiple of 8 is that's smaller than the number you counted. Ch 2, sc all sts, using evenly distributed sc2togs to reduce the number of stitches to that multiple of 8,
(For customization or a better fit for larger sizes- Measure around your chest under your bust, make a small gauge swatch of single crochet, and use that to calculate how many stitches are needed to fit around you, rounding up to the closest multiple of 8.)
Row 4: Ch 2, dc all sts, sl st into top of beginning ch3.
(Note: If you are substituting a lace pattern that is not a multiple of 8, you'll have to change this a bit. For example, if you want to use a multiple of 6, use the number 6 instead of 8 when following this section.)

Lace pattern (multiple of 8):
Row 1: Ch 2, dc 4 into first st, *sk 2, dc, ch 1, sk 1, dc, sk 2, dc 5 into next st* repeat between *s until 6 sts remain, sk 2, dc, ch 1, sk 1, dc, sk 1, sl st into top of first ch2, sl st into next st.
Row 2: Ch 3, sk 1, dc, *sk 2, dc 5 into space created by chain st on previous row, sk 2, dc, sk 1, dc* repeat between *s until 5 sts remain, sk 2, dc 5 into space created by chain on previous row, sk 2, sl st into 2nd chain of first ch3.
Row 3: Ch 2, dc 4 into space created by chain on previous row, *sk 2, dc, ch 1, sk 1, dc, sk 2, dc 5 into space created by chain on previous row* repeat between *s until 6 sts remain, sk 2, dc, ch 1, sk 1, dc, sk 1, sl st into top of first ch2, sl st into next st.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until there are 15 rows of the lace pattern total. For shaping: I do the first 5 rows using the H hook, the next 5 rows alternating between the H and I hook every repeat of the lace pattern, then the last 5 rows using only the I hook.
(Customization: You can try on the top at any point to see if it's long enough, and do extra repeats of the lace if it isn't. For curvier shaping, feel free to gradually increase to an even larger hook size.)

Bottom edging:
Row 1: Ch 2, dc all sts, sl st into top of first ch2.
Row 2: Ch 2, sc all sts, sl st into top of first ch2, bind off. Weave in ends.

I'm offering this pattern for free, but if you can, please donate a few dollars using the paypal button in the sidebar. It would be very much appreciated, and help me to be able to keep offering more patterns in the future.